Lessons from my first year of service

In honor of my one year in Namibia, I’ve made a list of 12 things I’ve learned in the past year, 1 for each month of my service. This list is not at all comprehensive, as many of the things I have learned have become so normal to me that I don’t even remember doing things differently, but I tried to list out some fun facts to capture my time here.

1. You can find family everywhere you go. I have gained 3 families in the last year who treat me as their own and always give me a place to call home

2. Termite mounds have many uses: provide mud for mud huts, a favorite snack for my learners, a shady spot, a place to access the best network and most importantly a playground for goats

3. A 14 hour bus ride is a piece of cake as long as you’re not sitting next to a smelly person or the bus doesn’t break down

4. How to cohabitate with bugs and learn to like them

5. When you’re late, you’re actually early. Whenever there is a meeting in the village, I know to arrive at least an hour after the start time

6. How to bucket bathe like a professional, and survive on less than 10 litres of water a day

7. You’re not drinking tea unless half the cup is full of sugar and a meal is not a meal without meat.

8. How to tie a shitenge as a skirt and keep it from falling off

9. The true meaning of the constantly used phrase “in Africa we share”: I want something from you so you should share it with me

10. Learners are happy to do anything to help out their teachers: need your clothes washed, house cleaned or water fetched? They’re eager to help

11. Chickens are a great bartering system in the absence of money

12. Patience. I have become so much more patient in handling the things I can’t control.

Things I’m still trying to learn

1. How to get rid of mice and keep them out of the house

2. The art of making the traditional “pap” made of maize meal with right consistency… a task that most children can do by the age of 6

3. Language. Although I’m getting better, I have been cursed with the American privilege of only needing to master one language in life

4. Handwashing my clothes the “proper” Namibian way. No matter how many times I’m shown or how many times I wash my clothes, I never do it “properly”. Apparently there is a specific sound that is made when washing correctly by hand… But regardless my clothes are still clean so I’m learning to accept that it may never happen

5. How to go to town to use wifi without spending all of mymoney. Restaurants have the best wifi, but also leave me without the cash that I walked in with

6. How to properly dance sinjonjo with my village cultural group

P.S. Celebrating a year in Namibia means celebrating a year of life for Mbili Mbili! My little girl is growing up so fast!  And she even made it on the national news!

Masubia Festival

Chief Liswani III: the king of the Masubia tribe

The Masubia (literally meaning “people who speak Subia”) is the dominant tribe in my region and the tribe of my village. Every year in late July the Masubia host a festival called Bwikuhane to celebrate the chief of the traditional court (called the Munitenge). One of the most unique things about my culture is the importance of traditional authorities over the Namibian government. Whether it comes to land disputes, social conflicts or government policies, the voice of the traditional authorities always is heard over, sometimes in spite of, the Namibian government. Basically the chief is the most respected person in the area and there are many rituals to even approaching or greeting him. 

Muyako sinjonjo group on the ride to Bukalo

Every year a few villages are invited to preform cultural dances at the festival in the traditional court. My village was asked to perform sinjonjo, one of the cultural dances, which consists of dances to drums while wearing reed skirts and chants to praise the chief. During the week leading up to the festival, I was invited by some of the ladies to come watch them rehearse. Next thing I knew, I was being asked to join them, and within a day I was a member of the Muyako sinjonjo group, with a tshirt and everything. Apparently my community was under the impression that makuwas (white people) physically could not shake their bodies, so even despite my lack of rhythm, everyone loved watching me dance. 

Thousands of people attend the festival located in Bukalo. From 7 am on the day of the festival, the chief's court becomes completely packed with people from babies to 90 year old women, all there to honor the chief. The festival consists of music and performances, cultural dances, gift giving, appearances of the other regional chiefs, feasting on a hippo and even the president attended this year. Those who cannot fit in the court itself surround the streets with cars and have a giant tailgate. The atmosphere felt so much like an American football game day. Families and friends set up barbecues, play music, drink beer and play games from early in the morning throughout the entire day (I've never felt so at home in such a new place).

At the festival, it is very common to see women dressed up in the Mushishi dress, which resembles a queen's attire (with about 10 layers on the back side to make the butt look more full) and is meant to honor the chief. My colleague Chaze and I made matching Mushishi dresses from fabric I bought in Rwanda for the event. Below are some pictures from the event:

Bayunt, Sabina and I at our tailgate

Chaze and I wearing our sinjonjo attire

My colleague Joyce in her beautiful mushishi

Chaze and I in our Mushishis

As the only makuwa at the festival of thousands wearing a mushishi and dancing sinjonjo, I quickly became a bit of a celebrity in the region. Throughout the day, people ran up to me asking me for pictures, offering me food and free drinks. At first I was a little weirded out, but my colleague just explained to me that they were all just so excited that an American was taking part in their culture and embracing their tradtitions. A video of me dancing went viral on Facebook and whatsapp and nearly everyone in town who ran into me for weeks after immediately recognized me as the makuwa dancing sinjonjo. Even crazier, I ended up on NBC: Namibian national tv from the festival footage. Never thought I would become a mini celebrity while here in Namibia... 

My debut on National TV

 Here's some videos of dancing at the festival for your enjoyment!