Masubia Festival

Chief Liswani III: the king of the Masubia tribe

The Masubia (literally meaning “people who speak Subia”) is the dominant tribe in my region and the tribe of my village. Every year in late July the Masubia host a festival called Bwikuhane to celebrate the chief of the traditional court (called the Munitenge). One of the most unique things about my culture is the importance of traditional authorities over the Namibian government. Whether it comes to land disputes, social conflicts or government policies, the voice of the traditional authorities always is heard over, sometimes in spite of, the Namibian government. Basically the chief is the most respected person in the area and there are many rituals to even approaching or greeting him. 

Muyako sinjonjo group on the ride to Bukalo

Every year a few villages are invited to preform cultural dances at the festival in the traditional court. My village was asked to perform sinjonjo, one of the cultural dances, which consists of dances to drums while wearing reed skirts and chants to praise the chief. During the week leading up to the festival, I was invited by some of the ladies to come watch them rehearse. Next thing I knew, I was being asked to join them, and within a day I was a member of the Muyako sinjonjo group, with a tshirt and everything. Apparently my community was under the impression that makuwas (white people) physically could not shake their bodies, so even despite my lack of rhythm, everyone loved watching me dance. 

Thousands of people attend the festival located in Bukalo. From 7 am on the day of the festival, the chief's court becomes completely packed with people from babies to 90 year old women, all there to honor the chief. The festival consists of music and performances, cultural dances, gift giving, appearances of the other regional chiefs, feasting on a hippo and even the president attended this year. Those who cannot fit in the court itself surround the streets with cars and have a giant tailgate. The atmosphere felt so much like an American football game day. Families and friends set up barbecues, play music, drink beer and play games from early in the morning throughout the entire day (I've never felt so at home in such a new place).

At the festival, it is very common to see women dressed up in the Mushishi dress, which resembles a queen's attire (with about 10 layers on the back side to make the butt look more full) and is meant to honor the chief. My colleague Chaze and I made matching Mushishi dresses from fabric I bought in Rwanda for the event. Below are some pictures from the event:

Bayunt, Sabina and I at our tailgate

Chaze and I wearing our sinjonjo attire

My colleague Joyce in her beautiful mushishi

Chaze and I in our Mushishis

As the only makuwa at the festival of thousands wearing a mushishi and dancing sinjonjo, I quickly became a bit of a celebrity in the region. Throughout the day, people ran up to me asking me for pictures, offering me food and free drinks. At first I was a little weirded out, but my colleague just explained to me that they were all just so excited that an American was taking part in their culture and embracing their tradtitions. A video of me dancing went viral on Facebook and whatsapp and nearly everyone in town who ran into me for weeks after immediately recognized me as the makuwa dancing sinjonjo. Even crazier, I ended up on NBC: Namibian national tv from the festival footage. Never thought I would become a mini celebrity while here in Namibia... 

My debut on National TV

 Here's some videos of dancing at the festival for your enjoyment!